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When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.